Diamonds in the 17th century

Around 1600, gems assume more importance than their settings, marking a change in jewelry design that coincided with the peak century of Indian diamond production. The role of metal in jewelry is reduced to that of a framework, and enamel disappears from the front of jewels, now used only on the backs. The classical elements favored in the Renaissance are eventually replaced by naturalism in the form of sprays of leaves and flowers, ribbons tied into knots, and simplified geometric lozenges, ovals, and circles. The rose-cut diamond is seen in combination with the aging point and table cuts, closely packed together in continuous lines or clusters. The first brilliant-cut diamonds, an enhancement of the table-cut, appear, and further strengthen the feature role of diamond in jewelry. In addition, silver begins to be substituted for the traditional gold settings to avoid yellow reflections cast over the diamond's white brilliance.